Some great footage and pics Tom Bonython took of Av going off last Monday up on Coastalwatch…

Well, it’s more like the epic Winter of ‘08 if you consider how much good surf there’s been since May. But the run we’ve had this month has been amazing - literally a perfect swell every week, caused by deep lows sweeping off below Tasmania and throwing out long period swells, which by the time they reach here are trimmed to perfection by the stiff offshore winds. I was a bit bummed I didn’t get to go to Bali with Clint, Dan and Joel this week, but after this last session I’ve got no regrets…

As predicted, the swell peaked today at about 4.5m on a 12 second period, so there were some solid ten footers hitting the bombies and reefs. I was just about to grab my board to paddle out the first spot pictured below, thinking it looked a perfect 6-8ft, but then saw a monster set close out the bay and wash all of the local chargers who were out there into shore, so thought the better of it. Great to watch though…

A little bit bigger today with the front edge of a new swell starting to push through, so the beaches were starting to max out, but the reefs were lighting up properly, so no complaints from this corner…

The waves just haven’t stopped pumping since the weekend, my only break so far being when I forgot my wetsuit yesterday morning and didn’t fancy braving the 15 degree water in board shorts (I did need to actually get some work done this week too). It’s been pretty hard work in the long period swell, with loads of water moving around and a big point-break style sweep running up the beach to paddle against. But when the sets come through they’re literally some of the best waves in living memory, rifling flawless, multiple barrel sections down the sand bank. And it just keeps on coming…